With a show branded as their ‘Farewell At Sea’ there’s no better band on whom to close out 70,000 Tons than the always-monstrous Sepultura. Their long goodbye has begun to draw out at this point – and the awesome energy of youthful drummer Greyson Nekrutman begs the question why on earth they wouldn’t try writing at least one more album – but it’s impossible not to feel the twinge of emotion knowing the days are numbered for songs as important as Ratamahatta or or as bludgeoningly iconic as Roots Bloody Roots. There’s little bittersweetness here, though, as hulking vocalist Derrick Greene has to stop himself from cracking up at some of the more outlandish examples of fancy dress, while Paulo Jr and Andreas Kisser are visibly relishing the fact their career is still throwing up fresh challenges and opportunities as outlandish as these. There’s probably not been as much violence on a boat down here since the height of piracy, but as always with the great Brazilians, the parting feeling is one of brotherhood and cleansing catharsis.
Almost immediately, it seems, the outdoor stage is being disassembled, the cleaning crews are out in force and we’re pulling back into Miami to hand the ship back to its more conventional clientele. But no-one is going easy into the good night, as metal karaoke is sung on until dawn, canapés are devoured and promises are exchanged that new friendships around the world will be kept up until the next time we can get together back onboard. Ultimately, that’s the really beautiful thing about this crazy voyage – one that’s about so much more than watching bands on a ship.